TGA frente a cisteamina

When choosing a brow lamination or lash lifting system, one of the biggest differences you’ll come across is the reducing agent used within Step 1. Two of the most common are Thioglycolate (TGA) and Cysteamine (HCL). Both ultimately serve the same purpose: to reduce the disulphide bonds within the hair’s keratin structure, allowing the hair to soften, become more flexible and be redirected into a new position.

However, TGA and Cysteamine have different chemical structures and processing characteristics, meaning they can be very different for the artist to work with. Neither is simply “better” than the other. Understanding their differences allows you to choose the most appropriate system for the hair type, treatment technique and result you want to achieve.

What Does Step 1 Do?

Our hair contains a protein called keratin, which is held together partly by strong chemical links known as disulphide bonds. During a lash lift or brow lamination, Step 1 creates the chemical environment required for the hair cuticle to swell and become more accessible to the reducing agent. The reducing agent then acts on these disulphide bonds within the cortex, temporarily altering the hair’s structure. As reduction takes place, the hair becomes softer, more pliable and easier to manipulate. This allows us to redirect brow hairs into a new growth direction or reshape lashes around a shield. Although both TGA and Cysteamine achieve this reduction, the way they behave during processing differs.

TGA

Thioglycolate is typically known for its effective and relatively fast reduction, making TGA systems an excellent option when working with strong, coarse or resistant hair. This makes TGA particularly useful when we need to create a significant change from the hair’s natural structure or direction. For lash lifting, TGA is an excellent choice for classic lash lifting techniques, particularly when working with strong or downward-growing lashes that require effective restructuring to achieve and maintain their new shape.

For brow lamination, it can be extremely effective on coarse, stubborn and resistant brow hairs that require greater reduction before they become sufficiently pliable. TGA can work efficiently; however, control and hair assessment are extremely important.

It is particularly suited to confident artists who understand how their chosen formula behaves and can recognise when the hair has reached the correct level of reduction rather than relying solely on a timer. The goal isn’t to process the hair for as long as possible; it’s to achieve just enough reduction to successfully restructure the hair while maintaining as much of its integrity as possible.

Cisteamina

Cysteamine is also a reducing agent, but generally provides a more gradual processing profile than traditional TGA systems. Cysteamine is chemically related to cysteine, an amino acid that plays an important role within the keratin structure of the hair. Cysteine residues are responsible for forming the disulphide bonds that contribute to keratin’s strength and stability.

Cysteamine systems are often chosen because they can provide a slower, more controlled reduction process, giving the artist more time to assess how the hair is responding. This can make Cysteamine an excellent choice when a more gradual approach is preferred.

However, slower doesn’t necessarily mean weaker. The performance of any Step 1 product depends on the complete formulation, including the concentration of the reducing agent, pH and supporting ingredients. A well-formulated Cysteamine system can still achieve significant restructuring when used correctly.

What About Reactions?

Both ingredients have their own considerations when it comes to the skin.

TGA products can occasionally cause skin irritation, particularly if they are misused, overexposed or allowed inappropriate contact with the skin. Cysteamine can also cause irritation and has the potential to cause allergic contact reactions in susceptible individuals. Sensitisation can develop following repeated exposure, meaning somebody may develop an allergy even if they have previously tolerated Cysteamine. For this reason, neither system should be considered completely reaction-free. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, contraindications and patch-testing requirements for the individual system you are using.

Tranquilidad en las cejas

Esta fórmula avanzada se ha desarrollado específicamente para aliviar la irritación y la inflamación de la piel. En algunos casos, los clientes pueden experimentar reacciones adversas o sensibilidad tras la aplicación de determinados productos. Brow Calm está diseñado para mitigar rápidamente estas reacciones mediante una combinación específica de ingredientes activos, entre los que se incluyen extractos de manzanilla y caléndula, vitamina E y una serie de compuestos antioxidantes conocidos por sus propiedades calmantes y regeneradoras.

Directions: Use Brow Calm in the event of a contra-action, such as irritation or inflammation. It is designed to help alleviate conditions like hives, swelling, and skin lifting.

Aplicar directamente sobre la zona afectada y masajear suavemente hasta que se absorba por completo. Aplicar más producto si es necesario y dejarlo actuar sobre la piel para un alivio y una protección continuos.

Does Cysteamine Nourish the Hair?

This is an important distinction.

Neither TGA nor Cysteamine provides the nourishing benefits of a Step 1 formula. They are both there primarily to perform chemical reduction.

The conditioning qualities of a lash lifting or brow lamination formula come from the additional ingredients incorporated into the complete formulation.

These may include ingredients such as:

• Hydrolysed proteins
• Amino acids
• Pantenol
• Aloe vera
• Glicerina
• Botanical extracts
• Conditioning agents
• Oils and emollients

All Buff Browz and Buff Lashes systems are formulated with additional conditioning ingredients and botanical extracts to help support the condition, manageability and appearance of the hair throughout the chemical service. This is why you shouldn’t judge a system solely by whether the active reducing agent is TGA or Cysteamine.

Look at the Complete Formula

The reducing agent is only one part of Step 1.

Two TGA formulas can behave completely differently, just as two Cysteamine formulas can. The overall performance of a product can be influenced by its:

• Reducing agent concentration
• pH
• Supporting ingredients
• Conditioning ingredients
• Application technique
• Processing time

When choosing your system, consider the complete formulation and how it performs on the hair, rather than focusing solely on one ingredient.

TGA vs Cysteamine: Which Should You Choose?

Ultimately, there isn’t one correct answer.

TGA may be preferred when:

• Working with coarse, strong or resistant hair
• Working with strong or downward-growing lashes
• Performing a classic lash lift
• Significant restructuring is required
• You prefer a faster, efficient processing profile
• You’re confident assessing the hair throughout processing
• When the client has compromised skin

Cysteamine may be preferred when:

• You prefer a slower, more gradual processing profile
• Greater processing control is desired
• You’re working with a technique or hair type suited to your chosen Cysteamine formula
• You prefer the working characteristics of Cysteamine

Most importantly, don’t feel that you have to choose one ingredient and use it for every client.

Different hair types, techniques and preferred timings require different approaches. Understanding both TGA and Cysteamine gives you another tool when deciding how best to treat the hair in front of you.

Conclusión

TGA and Cysteamine perform the same fundamental role, but they don’t behave identically. TGA generally provides faster, highly effective reduction, making it particularly useful for resistant hair and classic lash lifting techniques. Cysteamine generally provides a slower and more gradual processing experience, which can offer greater control depending on the formula and technique being used.

But neither ingredient should be assessed in isolation.

The quality of a Step 1 formula comes from the reducing agent, the complete formulation and the knowledge of the artist using it.

At Buff Browz and Buff Lashes, we believe the best artists aren’t restricted to one system. They understand the chemistry, understand the hair and choose the right tool for the treatment in front of them.